Size 12 with changes. Lengthen sleeves and body. Waist shaping,
sleeve shaping, and narrower sleeves. Size 6 and 8 needles. 3” ribbing
on body. Lilac color 1033, dye lot 52963. 4.5 sts./inch 6 rows/inch.
3” rib, then 3” knit straight. No stitches between decreases. Decreases each side, 2 per side on Row 1, row 6, row 12, and row 18 of this section. 16 decreases = approx 3.5” less at waist. Knit 2.5” straight so about 11.5” at this point. Increases on rows 1, 6, 12, and 18 of this next section. 2.5” straight = 16.5” to underarm.
Increase: M1R: LF needle back to front, knit through front loop. M1: LH needle front to back, knit through back loop. Or Raised increases: Right: lift right leg of stitch below next stitch on needle from back, put on L needle and knit it regularly. Left: knit stitch, left left leg of stitch below stitch just knitted onto needle (2 stitches below). Knit through back loop. I used M1R and M1L. 2 stitches between increases.
Pouch: 2nd row after rib, mark edges of pouch. Then at marker (K1, yo) until you have the number of pouch stitches for the yarn overs. Put the yarn overs on a piece of yarn and use the yarn overs to knit the pouch. Pouch about 7 1/4” long. Fuse at 7” body so the edges won’t stretch so much. Knit 16, Fuse 34, knit 16 for pouch front. Use pouch yarn since it’s the bigger ball. Use yarn tail to reinforce pouch at corner later.
Decreases lean into body of sweater. Increases lean away from body of sweater.
Sleeves: Make more narrow and use gradual increases. 50 stitches for sleeve at full width instead of 54. German twisted cast on 40 stitches. A.wants a thumb hole, so K1, P1 for 2” (to cover part of fingers), then go back and forth to create a thumb hole for 2 1/4”. Do the thumb hole after 10 stitches for one sleeve and after 30 stitches for other sleeve so they are in the right spot.
After thumb hole, k1, p1 for 2 inches for cuff. To increase for sleeve width: Increase every 12 rows (row 12, 24, 36, etc.) 5 times for 10 stitches increased= 50 stitches total. 2 plain stitches at underarm between increases. Increases face outward, so increase row: K1, M1L, knit to last stitch, M1R, k last stitch. Increases will be finished after 10” of knitting plus 2” cuff= 12 inches at full width. Knit 4” more plain so 16” total length plus thumb hole/hand length of 4 1/4”.
Since sleeve is only 50 stitches wide, yoke will not have as many stitches as size 12. So, skip the first decrease since each round decreases 8 stitches of yoke (4 stitches each sleeve). So, knit 6 rounds then begin decrease rounds. This will allow enough length for yoke.
Stockinette Stitch Hood--increase length, so I made the hood 11 1/2” long. Knit one half row, then kitchener together, using garter stitch kitchener at front.
3” rib, then 3” knit straight. No stitches between decreases. Decreases each side, 2 per side on Row 1, row 6, row 12, and row 18 of this section. 16 decreases = approx 3.5” less at waist. Knit 2.5” straight so about 11.5” at this point. Increases on rows 1, 6, 12, and 18 of this next section. 2.5” straight = 16.5” to underarm.
Increase: M1R: LF needle back to front, knit through front loop. M1: LH needle front to back, knit through back loop. Or Raised increases: Right: lift right leg of stitch below next stitch on needle from back, put on L needle and knit it regularly. Left: knit stitch, left left leg of stitch below stitch just knitted onto needle (2 stitches below). Knit through back loop. I used M1R and M1L. 2 stitches between increases.
Pouch: 2nd row after rib, mark edges of pouch. Then at marker (K1, yo) until you have the number of pouch stitches for the yarn overs. Put the yarn overs on a piece of yarn and use the yarn overs to knit the pouch. Pouch about 7 1/4” long. Fuse at 7” body so the edges won’t stretch so much. Knit 16, Fuse 34, knit 16 for pouch front. Use pouch yarn since it’s the bigger ball. Use yarn tail to reinforce pouch at corner later.
Decreases lean into body of sweater. Increases lean away from body of sweater.
Sleeves: Make more narrow and use gradual increases. 50 stitches for sleeve at full width instead of 54. German twisted cast on 40 stitches. A.wants a thumb hole, so K1, P1 for 2” (to cover part of fingers), then go back and forth to create a thumb hole for 2 1/4”. Do the thumb hole after 10 stitches for one sleeve and after 30 stitches for other sleeve so they are in the right spot.
After thumb hole, k1, p1 for 2 inches for cuff. To increase for sleeve width: Increase every 12 rows (row 12, 24, 36, etc.) 5 times for 10 stitches increased= 50 stitches total. 2 plain stitches at underarm between increases. Increases face outward, so increase row: K1, M1L, knit to last stitch, M1R, k last stitch. Increases will be finished after 10” of knitting plus 2” cuff= 12 inches at full width. Knit 4” more plain so 16” total length plus thumb hole/hand length of 4 1/4”.
Since sleeve is only 50 stitches wide, yoke will not have as many stitches as size 12. So, skip the first decrease since each round decreases 8 stitches of yoke (4 stitches each sleeve). So, knit 6 rounds then begin decrease rounds. This will allow enough length for yoke.
Stockinette Stitch Hood--increase length, so I made the hood 11 1/2” long. Knit one half row, then kitchener together, using garter stitch kitchener at front.
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