I learned about the Fisherman's Kep pattern by Anne Sinclair from the knitters on Fair Isle who were selling the pattern to buy new windows for their local museum, the George Waterston Memorial Centre and Museum. They have a Facebook group, The Fair Isle Fisherman's Kep Page, where knitters can ask questions and receive help with the pattern, and also post pictures of their finished keps.
So, I made this fisherman's kep for my granddaughter. This will be so warm for her this winter. This is a fun pattern to knit.
Fair Isle has a long history of trading their textiles, including their handknit keps, with passing ships for goods that were not produced on Fair Isle.
My notes:
I used Galway sport yarn and Cascade 220 sport in light pink. I used
size 2 (2.75) needle for ribbing. 144 stitches and size 3 (3.25) mm for
the body of the hat.
When turning the brim, p 1 row and then purl 1 row after turning so 2 purl rows aren’t at edge.
Next time, use a smaller needle for the outside ribbing on the brim so it holds in a little more.
I used a centered double decrease at the top so the pink thread would
be on top of the stripes. So, slip 2 stitches together as if to k2tog,
and then k1 stitch. Slip the 2 stitches over that stitch. Knit the
stitch in pink, and each row, knit the stitch above the decrease in
pink.
My decreases start with 112 stitches, decrease every other row to 16 stitches (all pink). 6 decreases.
Motifs from any of these books: A Shetland Knitter’s Notebook, A Shetland Pattern Book, or Traditional Fair Isle Knitting.
Saturday, August 11, 2018
C
A Pretty Afghan for my Granddaughter
I love this feather and fan crochet afghan pattern called Feather and Fan Baby Blanket, by Alexis Middleton. I crocheted it for my granddaughter and made it larger. I used Caron Cakes, color Mixed Berry. I used 5 skeins. I love the sequence of colors.
I cast on 187 stitches using foundation crochet. It's a little over 42" wide, and about 62" long. I ended with a row of single crochet instead of single crochet in the front loop because I think it will be a bit stronger at the top edge.
Victorian Lattice Square Afghan for A.
I'm crocheting an afghan for my granddaughter. I'm using Stylecraft Dk acrylic yarn, and she chose the colors Lapis and Mushroom. The squares will alternate in the afghan and be joined by the Lapis color, and I'll add a border in Lapis.
I love this pattern, and it's perfect for her.
My notes:
I’m using Stylecraft DK yarn in Lapis blue and Mushroom and a size E 3.5 mm hook.
I am using the sc, ch1 as the first DC where the pattern says it. It makes a smaller DC which blends in well with the join each round. Round 9 is SC around. This is 14 sc, ch1 in space, 14 sc, then the corner of 2sc, ch3, 2 sc.
I’m adding a round of blue around each square, so the mushroom squares will have a round of blue. This is 16 sc, 1sc in center, 16 sc, 3 sc in corners around. I will join the squares with blue. So, the squares are now 7 1/2”.
Design: 6 squares wide by 8 squares long before border. 48 squares. SC join in Lapis.
I love this pattern, and it's perfect for her.
My notes:
I’m using Stylecraft DK yarn in Lapis blue and Mushroom and a size E 3.5 mm hook.
I am using the sc, ch1 as the first DC where the pattern says it. It makes a smaller DC which blends in well with the join each round. Round 9 is SC around. This is 14 sc, ch1 in space, 14 sc, then the corner of 2sc, ch3, 2 sc.
I’m adding a round of blue around each square, so the mushroom squares will have a round of blue. This is 16 sc, 1sc in center, 16 sc, 3 sc in corners around. I will join the squares with blue. So, the squares are now 7 1/2”.
Design: 6 squares wide by 8 squares long before border. 48 squares. SC join in Lapis.
Tuesday, August 7, 2018
Cozy Socks
I love making these cozy socks for my granddaughters. The pattern is called Cozy Toes by Christiane Burkhard. The pattern comes with child and adult sizes, and these socks are in worsted weight yarn for cozy warm winter socks.
The yarn is Red Heart Gumdrop in the color Licorice. It's an acrylic yarn. These socks are so fast and fun to knit.
My notes: K's foot 9 1/4". Cast on 40 with size 3 needles. K2, P2 cuff for 2 1/2". Size 4 needle for sock. 12 heel stitches to pick up. 7" leg total length. Foot is 7 3/4" long before toe. 12 stitches to kitchener (6 + 6). German twisted cast on.
My notes: K's foot 9 1/4". Cast on 40 with size 3 needles. K2, P2 cuff for 2 1/2". Size 4 needle for sock. 12 heel stitches to pick up. 7" leg total length. Foot is 7 3/4" long before toe. 12 stitches to kitchener (6 + 6). German twisted cast on.
Sunday, July 8, 2018
Norwegian Mittens for my Granddaughter
I took part in a Knit Along course by Kristin Myrmel of Norknit.com and SKD (Scandinavian Knitting Design). Kristin is a Norwegian knitter. Her courses are very informative, and she includes lots of videos on various knitting techniques. Along with the course, there's also a closed Facebook group where everyone can share their progress and pictures.
I love the design of Norwegian mittens. Norwegian mittens have several design features that make them easy to recognize. They have a thumb gore, and the design on the outer thumb is different from the inner thumb, which matches the inside of the hand.
The outside of the hand has a large design--often Norwegian stars, snowflakes, or animals. The inside of the hand has a small repeating design. Between the two is a line which separates the hand--often 3 stitches that form stripes or dots. The cuff can be a ribbed cuff, often with stripes, or a colorwork cuff, or a lacy cuff. The mittens have a pointed top of the hand and the thumb.
Norwegian Mittens, Inside and Outside of Hand
I used Galway sport yarn and size 3.0 mm double pointed needles for the mitten, except I used a size 2.75 mm needles for the thumb. I used 2.75 mm also for the cuff. I knit into the back of the knit stitches for the K2, P2 cuff.
I once took a Norwegian mitten class (2009) from Arnhild Hillesland and enjoyed her class, too. There were a few differences between the 2 classes. Kristen uses k2 through the back loop for the cuff, and Arnhild knits the cuff regularly. Arnhild taught us to use k2 through the back loop as our Left Leaning Decrease, and Kristin uses S1, K1, PSSO (or SSK). The top of the mitten was a little different, too. Arnhild takes the last stitches through the yarn tail, using the white yarn tail for the white stitches, and the pink yarn tail for the pink stitches. In Kristin's mitten we did a double decrease at the top first: S1, K2tog, PSSO. I've loved the mittens I've made from each class.
My pattern notes:
I added 3 rows to the thumb gusset, alternating 2 rows of each design. Thumb: use 2.75 mm needles. Skip last row of top of outside thumb. Added some Xs to first row of thumb to continue pattern.
I was afraid the mitten would be too long, so I took out 2 rows in the center, so only 1 row between the 2 stars. Center diamond is 1 x, x space x, x 3 spaces x, x space x, x. The length would have been fine. The mitten fits very closely.
I used k2b for left slanted decrease as Arnhild does.
Finished 7 1/4” mitten, excluding cuff. 21 rows = 3”, about 7 rows per inch. K: wrist to thumb 2 1/4”, pinky 5 1/4”, hand about 7”.
I love the design of Norwegian mittens. Norwegian mittens have several design features that make them easy to recognize. They have a thumb gore, and the design on the outer thumb is different from the inner thumb, which matches the inside of the hand.
The outside of the hand has a large design--often Norwegian stars, snowflakes, or animals. The inside of the hand has a small repeating design. Between the two is a line which separates the hand--often 3 stitches that form stripes or dots. The cuff can be a ribbed cuff, often with stripes, or a colorwork cuff, or a lacy cuff. The mittens have a pointed top of the hand and the thumb.
I once took a Norwegian mitten class (2009) from Arnhild Hillesland and enjoyed her class, too. There were a few differences between the 2 classes. Kristen uses k2 through the back loop for the cuff, and Arnhild knits the cuff regularly. Arnhild taught us to use k2 through the back loop as our Left Leaning Decrease, and Kristin uses S1, K1, PSSO (or SSK). The top of the mitten was a little different, too. Arnhild takes the last stitches through the yarn tail, using the white yarn tail for the white stitches, and the pink yarn tail for the pink stitches. In Kristin's mitten we did a double decrease at the top first: S1, K2tog, PSSO. I've loved the mittens I've made from each class.
My pattern notes:
I added 3 rows to the thumb gusset, alternating 2 rows of each design. Thumb: use 2.75 mm needles. Skip last row of top of outside thumb. Added some Xs to first row of thumb to continue pattern.
I was afraid the mitten would be too long, so I took out 2 rows in the center, so only 1 row between the 2 stars. Center diamond is 1 x, x space x, x 3 spaces x, x space x, x. The length would have been fine. The mitten fits very closely.
I used k2b for left slanted decrease as Arnhild does.
Finished 7 1/4” mitten, excluding cuff. 21 rows = 3”, about 7 rows per inch. K: wrist to thumb 2 1/4”, pinky 5 1/4”, hand about 7”.
Wednesday, May 30, 2018
Bead Weaving for Bracelets--Patriotic and Parakeets
Making bracelets on a bead loom is quick and easy. My granddaughters love them!
I started this patriotic bracelet for my granddaughter on my Northwest beading loom. I love the pattern, which I found on Pinterest. I used size 8 seed beads by Toho and OneG thread. I have two more of these to make before the 4th of July.
I wove in the ends and added a lobster adjustable clasp.
My two granddaughters love their parakeets, so I made this parakeet bracelet, and I have one more to make. Size 8 Toho beads and OneG thread.
I wove in the ends and added an adjustable lobster clasp.
Finally, I made a bracelet using my granddaughter's school colors and an easy macrame finish.
My notes: Patriotic, K, 6" wrist, so 6 1/2" finished. 5 1/4" beads, clasp 1 1/4". Beading 5 3/8". 9" across =3/4". 2 repeats 4 3/4". End 4 blue, 1 red, 4 blue, then add to each side.
N, school bracelet, 5 1/4" wrist. Hearts, 7 beads, 8 threads. 4 hearts =2 3/4". 24 rows, then decrease each side. 5, 3, 3, wrap around warp threads several times and take weft through several rows, knot, thru several rows, knot, thru several rows,cut.
Parakeet, K 6" wrist, so 6 1/2". 41 rows = 4/3/4". taper both ends so approx 5 1/4". 11, 9, 7 each side = 5 1/4". 12 mm 15 mm lobster clasp.
I started this patriotic bracelet for my granddaughter on my Northwest beading loom. I love the pattern, which I found on Pinterest. I used size 8 seed beads by Toho and OneG thread. I have two more of these to make before the 4th of July.
N, school bracelet, 5 1/4" wrist. Hearts, 7 beads, 8 threads. 4 hearts =2 3/4". 24 rows, then decrease each side. 5, 3, 3, wrap around warp threads several times and take weft through several rows, knot, thru several rows, knot, thru several rows,cut.
Parakeet, K 6" wrist, so 6 1/2". 41 rows = 4/3/4". taper both ends so approx 5 1/4". 11, 9, 7 each side = 5 1/4". 12 mm 15 mm lobster clasp.
Saturday, April 14, 2018
Faroese Shawls
Faroese Shawls are shawls traditionally knit in the Faroe Islands using the natural colored wool of their sheep. It is a warm shawl that sits well on the shoulders and is perfect for everyday wear. The shawl can also be tied for extra warmth and for easy wearing while working outside.
A guild friend mentioned knitting a Faroese Shawl as a knit along, which inspired me to begin to knit one, too. I had taken 2 classes in the past on knitting a Faroese doll-sized shawl, but never had the time to knit a full-sized shawl.
An Example of a Graph showing a Faroese Shawl with a Center Gusset.
Child's Faroese Shawl by Olivia Joensen. Picture from Faroe Strands Blog.
Faroese Shawl Traditional Characteristics
The Faroese shawl has a number of traditional characteristics. It is knit from the bottom up--in other words, there are hundreds of stitches cast on to begin the shawl. The shawl is decreased bit by bit until there are few remaining stitches to cast off or to graft together. The shawl is traditionally knit in garter stitch. This makes the shawl reversible. Some shawls are lined. Many are fringed. Some shawls are more than one color.
The shawl has a Center Gusset. This helps provide the wonderful support of the shawl to help it stay on the shoulders. The center gusset is a rectangular shape which is wider at the lower edge. On each right side row, a decrease is knit next to each edge of the gusset, and in addition, some rows have decreases inside the gusset for additional shaping.
Shoulder decreases rows toward the upper part of the shawl also provide shaping to help keep the shawl on the shoulders.
The shawl has a garter stitch border. Decreases are worked on right side rows next to the border on each side of the shawl.
Faroese shawls often have a lovely lace border. Some shawls continue the lace pattern into the center gusset. The Faroese lace pattern graphs show only the Yarn Overs, which they call Eyelets. Each eyelet is marked with an X. You have to decide which decreases to use in the lace graph.
Faroese Graph showing Lace Eyelets
The shawl I'll be knitting is from the book, "215 Shawl Designs," by Olivia Joensen. This book was originally published in 1980 and has recently been republished. It includes an English translation. It is available from The Island Wool Company online.
This book contains 250 lace charts and also a shawl graph and instructions for knitting a basic Faroese Shawl.
There are many good sources for Faroese Shawl patterns. Marilyn Van Keppel wrote a translation of a book of Faroese Shawls into English, available at Schoolhouse Press online. They call it the Faroe Shawl book because the name isn't easy to pronounce. The first class I took about Faroe Island shawls was taught by Marilyn Van Keppel around 2001 in Columbia, MO. It was a wonderfully informative class.
Cheryl Oberle has some beautiful Faroese shawls in her wonderful shawl book, "Folk Shawls: 25 Knitting Patterns and Tales from Around the World." The 2nd class I took on Faroese shawls was taught by Cheryl Oberle at the Wis. Sheep and Wool Festival, which was also a wonderful class.
A beautiful Faroese shawl pattern is available in the book, "Nordic Knitting: 31 Patterns in the Scandinavian Tradition," by Susanne Pagoldh. It is a traditional Faroe Island shawl from the Faroe Islands, and the instructions are a bit sparse. There are some beautiful Faroese shawl patterns in the books, "A Gathering of Lace" and "Shawls and Scarves: The Best of Knitter's Magazine." There are also lots of other Faroese Shawls and patterns that you can find on Ravelry.com.
This is a beautiful traditional shawl, and I'm sure it will be fun to knit.
A guild friend mentioned knitting a Faroese Shawl as a knit along, which inspired me to begin to knit one, too. I had taken 2 classes in the past on knitting a Faroese doll-sized shawl, but never had the time to knit a full-sized shawl.
Faroese Shawl Traditional Characteristics
The Faroese shawl has a number of traditional characteristics. It is knit from the bottom up--in other words, there are hundreds of stitches cast on to begin the shawl. The shawl is decreased bit by bit until there are few remaining stitches to cast off or to graft together. The shawl is traditionally knit in garter stitch. This makes the shawl reversible. Some shawls are lined. Many are fringed. Some shawls are more than one color.
The shawl has a Center Gusset. This helps provide the wonderful support of the shawl to help it stay on the shoulders. The center gusset is a rectangular shape which is wider at the lower edge. On each right side row, a decrease is knit next to each edge of the gusset, and in addition, some rows have decreases inside the gusset for additional shaping.
Shoulder decreases rows toward the upper part of the shawl also provide shaping to help keep the shawl on the shoulders.
The shawl has a garter stitch border. Decreases are worked on right side rows next to the border on each side of the shawl.
Faroese shawls often have a lovely lace border. Some shawls continue the lace pattern into the center gusset. The Faroese lace pattern graphs show only the Yarn Overs, which they call Eyelets. Each eyelet is marked with an X. You have to decide which decreases to use in the lace graph.
The shawl I'll be knitting is from the book, "215 Shawl Designs," by Olivia Joensen. This book was originally published in 1980 and has recently been republished. It includes an English translation. It is available from The Island Wool Company online.
This book contains 250 lace charts and also a shawl graph and instructions for knitting a basic Faroese Shawl.
There are many good sources for Faroese Shawl patterns. Marilyn Van Keppel wrote a translation of a book of Faroese Shawls into English, available at Schoolhouse Press online. They call it the Faroe Shawl book because the name isn't easy to pronounce. The first class I took about Faroe Island shawls was taught by Marilyn Van Keppel around 2001 in Columbia, MO. It was a wonderfully informative class.
Cheryl Oberle has some beautiful Faroese shawls in her wonderful shawl book, "Folk Shawls: 25 Knitting Patterns and Tales from Around the World." The 2nd class I took on Faroese shawls was taught by Cheryl Oberle at the Wis. Sheep and Wool Festival, which was also a wonderful class.
A beautiful Faroese shawl pattern is available in the book, "Nordic Knitting: 31 Patterns in the Scandinavian Tradition," by Susanne Pagoldh. It is a traditional Faroe Island shawl from the Faroe Islands, and the instructions are a bit sparse. There are some beautiful Faroese shawl patterns in the books, "A Gathering of Lace" and "Shawls and Scarves: The Best of Knitter's Magazine." There are also lots of other Faroese Shawls and patterns that you can find on Ravelry.com.
This is a beautiful traditional shawl, and I'm sure it will be fun to knit.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)