Sheep Band and Some Card Weaving Tips

This sheep band is my first card weaving project except for a simple band that I learned in a class.  I'm using my Schacht inkle loom and 3/2 cotton.  The band is about 1 5/8" wide.

                                                              Sheep Card Woven Band

The threading pattern is available here:  http://www.hilltopcloud.co.uk/blog/18th-december-tablet-weaving . 

There are 23 cards and they face left.  A and D are on top, A and B are toward the weaver.  4 forward turns (toward weaver) and 4 backward turns (away from weaver) is the pattern.  Thread S and Z (not card position, which is what I did.)  Threading S and Z will make the sheep ears point downward instead of upward. 

I've learned a lot about card weaving patterns.  Some of the patterns on Pinterest are very difficult to figure out because they may not specify turning direction, which way the card faces, and if the threading or card position is S and Z. 

Helpful Tips
When you thread S, the card position will be Z.
When you thread Z, the card position will be S.

The color that will show up on the band is the color that moves across the top of the card.  So, if the card faces Left, A and D are on top, and if you move the card away from you, the color in hole A will move to the D position (still on top of the card).  It is moving across the top of the card, so the color in A will show up in the band.

If the card faces LEFT, the letters are probably on the card counter-clockwise.  A and D are on top and A and B are closest to the weaver.  (A, B, C, D are counter-clockwise)

If the card faces RIGHT, the letters are probably clockwise.  D and A are on top (A is farthest from weaver), and C and D are closest to the weaver. (A, B, C, D are clockwise)

If you thread a card S and move the card away from you, the twist will be Z.
If you thread a card Z and move the card away from you, the twist will be S.

If you thread a card S and move the card toward yourself, the twist will be S.
If you thread a card Z and move the card toward yourself, the twist will be Z.

If you find a band draft without directions, you can look at the first row of the colors of the band.  Does it look like it is the same as the threading in holes A?  If so, Color A is the first row of the pattern.  Or it may look like the same threading as holes D across.  If so, the first row of the pattern will be D.  So, you need to thread the cards so that the correct color will show up on row one. 

I'm really enjoying this project.

Colonial Doll Outfit for N.'s Doll

I made a matching doll outfit for N's doll for N's Colonial Day at school.  The kids learned what life was like in the early days of America.  They learned to weave on a 4-shaft table loom and also to weave a tape (strap or band) on a  reproduction Colonial tape loom.  The boys made a simple wooden top, and the girls made a sock doll.  They played school with little slates and learned about manners and rules of the 18th Century.  They also learned how to put quilt fabric squares into a colorful quilt block.  They churned butter, made corn muffins, and also made fresh-squeezed lemonade.  A fun day!  The kids all looked so cute in their Colonial outfits.

                                                     N's Colonial Doll Outfit, March 2017

N's doll dress is based on Simplicity 8211, v. 4-5. 

Doll Dress Notes
 I added length to the dress so it is floor length.  I made a placket at the back neck instead of using Velcro for the back seam.  The placket is 1 1/2" wide, and I used the straight grain of fabric.  I used a 3/8 inch seam. Sew the back seam up to placket. Press seams open.  Staystitch the opening 3/8" at top to V--one stitch at bottom, pivot and back up the other side.

Slit opening is 4 1/4" from raw edge. Sew placket Right Sides together, with the placket on top. Press, and then sew the folded edge of placket by hand, and then baste the right placket back.   I could make the pattern have side seams instead of a back seam so the placket is easier without seam there (just cut a slit).  (Placket width is usually 2 seam allowances plus twice the width of placket. One side is pressed under the width of seam allowance, 3/8".)  

The Yoke back seam is stitched when sewing the neck seam of yoke.  Trim, clip, and turn. Interface the yoke facing. I used snaps for the back neck edge. I used Peter Rabbit character buttons on the front of the dress to match N's.

                                                 N's Colonial Doll Dress Simplicity 8211

The doll's apron and bonnet pattern are from Little House Pioneer Doll Dress and Ensemble by Ethington House Heritage Doll Clothing.

The Apron
I used Apron View A.  I added facings to the back edges of the apron facing pattern and made the curve a bit more gentle on the facings so it was easier to serge that edge.  I interfaced the facings. I took off 1" from the pattern length and added a ruffle to match N's pinafore. I cut the ruffle 3 1/2" wide (1/2 inch doubled hem and 1/2" seam, so about 2 1/2" finished).  I used two pieces 35" long.  Seam is in the center.  Ruffle is 2 1/2 times fullness.

Notes: Open out lower facing and pin ruffle in place up to the seam of the lower facing.  Fold the facing around to the outside and sew it in place.  Serge the whole edge.  Fold back the facing to the inside and press seam allowances to the pinafore.  Tack the facings to the seam allowances and catch stitch or whip stitch the facing to the underarm seams.

I had added 1/4" to the back edges of the apron so I could make buttonholes.  I used Peter Rabbit buttons, which are almost 5/8" long, so buttonholes are 3/4" long.  On most garments, the Center Front or Center Back is 5/8" from the finished edge, and the buttonhole starts 1/8" closer to the finished edge, so 1/2" from the finished edge. I sewed the doll buttonholes about 3/8" + from the finished side edge, 5/8" from the top finished edge, and 6/8" from the lower finished edge.  Buttonholes are on the Right back.  I used Two Buttonholes.

                                                   N's Doll Bonnet, Little House Pioneer

The Bonnet
The bonnet is a bit confusing at the casing.  I reinforced the corners where the slit will be on the bonnet near the casing.  The casing must be just under the slit, so the facing ends just at the casing.  I added to the seams of the bonnet to make it easier to sew and added to the facing edge where it folds over.  Press that folded edge so it has a crease mark. 

When sewing the bonnet facing to the bonnet, right sides together, sew from just at the bottom of the casing around to the bottom of the casing at the other side.  Turn and press.  (The top part of the facing is not sewn yet.)  Cut a slit to the reinforcing stitches from each of the side edges.  Fold in the side raw edges of the casing, and put the elastic in place.  The elastic is cut longer with the 5" center marks in the center of it.  It's easier to sew it in flat and stretch it later to the markings. Sew down the top of the facing, carefully making sure to not catch the elastic in the seam.  Sew next to the elastic at the bottom of the casing--about a 1/2" casing.  Then pull the elastic to the 5" measurement marks and sew the side edges well, making sure the sides of the fabric are turned inside the casing.  Use matching thread. Sew the ties about 1/4" above the slit on the right side of the bonnet with the seam of the tie down.  When sewing the bonnet facing to the bonnet, make sure the bonnet edge is about 1/16" inside the facing brim edge so it's easier to turn the brim and hand sew that edge. Sew the side seams down when sewing (catch them in the seam). I made the ties longer so it's easier for her to tie the bow.  They are 1 1/4" x 18" cut.  I interfaced the brim of the bonnet.

The Colonial Rules from early America were posted for the kids to see. 

Dyeing Fun at the Jefferson City Fiber Retreat

The Indigo Dyeing class at the Jefferson City Fiber Retreat was a lot of fun.  Some people dyed silk scarves and silk squares using resist methods, or linen or cotton blouses, or yarns and rovings. The yarn can be dyed in successive dye dips to make it tonal.  I dyed 2 childrens' cotton T-shirts and a skein of wool yarn. 

I used tie dye methods to dye my shirts.  This one was very tightly rubber banded in a bullseye pattern.  We soaked the T-shirt longer than usual so the dye could penetrate better.  So, we soaked it about 15-20 minutes.

                                                         Tie-Dye Bullseye Pattern

I used a swirl pattern for the other T-shirt and tightly rubber banded it into pie segments.  The instructor was concerned the dye wouldn't penetrate and opened it up a bit.  Next time I think I'll try leaving it tightly banded and see how it looks.  We left it in the dye for at least 15 minutes and I took it out to let it rest and oxidize for about 20 minutes, and then put it in the dye for a few more minutes.

                                                             Tie-Dye Indigo Swirl Pattern

I also dyed a skein of wool yarn from Knit Picks.  I tied it securely in 4 places before dyeing it.  We soaked the T-shirts and yarn in plain water and squeezed out the water before placing in the dye vat.
I really like this color blue.  When the dye vat is used with many projects, each successive dye project gets lighter or grayer unless you add more dye crystals or Thiox.  The instructor did add more dye crystals half way through the dyeing (1 TBS more) and heated up the dye vat.

                                                   Indigo Dyed Wool Yarn, Worsted Weight

                                               Indigo Dyed Yarn wrapped into a skein. 
The first picture of the skein is truer to the color of the blue.  The instructor advised not washing the yarn until it has set for 1 week, and not washing the shirts until they have set for 2 weeks to really let the color bond.  She suggested using Orvis soap to wash them because it's a very gentle soap and not washing the shirts with Tide detergent because it can remove stains, and indigo is like a stain.  Use a gentle detergent for washing dyed shirts.

Notes:  Instructor, Ercil Howard. Recipe for 3 gallons using a stainless steel pot.  Heat the water to 70-120 degrees F but not over 120 degrees.  Recipe:  2 TBS. crystal Indigo, 2 1/2 TBS soda ash, 2 TBS thiox.  Wait 10 minutes.  Surface bubbles should be bright metallic shiny blue, not flat or dull looking.  Remove bubbles and foam with a wet paper towel or damp piece of cloth wiped across the flat surfaces.  Wool and silk: 3-15 minutes. Cotton, linen, hemp, raimie: 20-30 min.

Take out of dye and let rest; don't rinse yet.  Hang or lay fiber on a surface for 15-30 minutes to completely oxidize.  Otherwise dye will not bond to fiber.  Wet dyed fiber is always darker than dried fiber.

You can add it back into the vat if you want a darker blue.

We dunked our projects in a bucket of water with some lemon juice in it (just about 1 tablespoon or less).  You can use vinegar. Rinse in plain water for now.  Let dry and then let it sit for several days or up to 2 weeks. Then wash with Orvus soap or non-detergent soap for 10 minutes or longer.  Rinse until there is no cloudiness.  Wash cotton twice in washing machine separately or other fiber will be pale blue.  It is normal for indigo to crock (rub off).

Crochet Bookmark: Project Night

RhonnaLeigh taught us how to make a pretty crocheted bookmark on Project Night of our Fiberarts Guild.  She learned to crochet from her Grandmother, and her Grandmother taught her to crochet these when she was 8 years old.  Her grandmother crocheted doilies with crocheted flowers around the edges, but since our project night meetings aren't long enough, RhonnaLeigh designed a bookmark for us with the crocheted flowers on it. 

                                                   Crochet Bookmark, RhonnaLeigh's pattern


We used size 10 crochet cotton, and I used a size 6 crochet hook.  RhonnaLeigh recommended a crochet hook size 5, 6, or 7, depending on how tightly you crochet. 

It was so much fun to learn, and the bookmarks are so pretty.  I'm sure I'll be making more of these. 

Colonial Day Costume for N.

The 2nd graders at N's school have Colonial Day every spring, and I take my table loom and tape loom to teach them about weaving.  The kids all dress up in LIttle House on the Prairie style clothing and have lots of fun.

I just finished N's dress, pinafore, and bonnet.  I'll also make a matching doll outfit.  The girl outfit is McCall's 9424.  It's a lot of fun to make.  Cotton calico fabric and cotton broadcloth.

                                                               McCalls 9424

                                                             Bonnet McCall's 9424
I lined the bonnet completely by cutting out an extra bonnet piece instead of a small facing piece.  This makes the bonnet pretty on the inside also.

                                                        Peter Rabbit Buttons  :)
N liked the Peter Rabbit buttons, so her dress has 3 Peter Rabbit buttons, definitely not Colonial times, but fun!  The label says Specially Handmade by Grandma, and it was from Joann's, but I got it some time ago.

Project Night: Drop Stitch Scarf for A.

Our Fiberarts Guild has Project Nights, and sometimes we work on a group project so newer knitters or crocheters can learn new skills from more advanced members.  Last fall, we started the Easy Drop Stitch Scarf Pattern by Christine Vogel.  This is an easy scarf to work on while riding in the car or waiting to pick up kids/grandkids.  So, this was one of my "take with me" knitting.

I used Scarfie by Lion Brand Yarns, which is a bulky weight yarn.  It makes a nice soft scarf.  I think she'll like it.  The colors are prettier than in the pictures.  The color is Charcoal/Aqua.  I cast on 26 stitches and used size 8 needles.  60 inches long.

Norwegian Mittens (Selbuvotter)

Norwegian mittens are fun to knit.  I love the star pattern on these.  The pattern is Rigmor's Selbu Mittens but with a traditional ribbed cuff, available at Ravelry.com. 

The history of the Norwegian mitten traces back to a winter Sunday in 1857 when Marit Emstad and her sisters wore mittens knit by Marit with black 8-pointed star-roses on a white background to church.  Soon many other church members were knitting their own 2-color mitten designs and a tradition was born.

                                                                Norwegian Mittens
Norwegian mittens have some common characteristics.  They are usually 2 colors: a background color and a pattern color.  The colors are high contrast, and traditionally were black and white.  They have a large pattern on the back of the hand, often with stars or roses, but they can also have figures, such as reindeer or other animals. The palm of the hand has a small repeating pattern, and there is a dividing row of stitches between the palm and the back of the hand, often a 3-stitch pattern. The mittens usually have pointed tips.

The thumb also has a pointed tip.  The mitten thumb on the outside has another pattern design, and the back of the thumb continues with the small repeating pattern of the palm. The mitten thumb has a thumb gore which increases at the base of the thumb.

The cuff can be a ribbed cuff with stripes of the contrasting color, or a cuff with a lacy pattern.  It can also be a patterned cuff.  Traditionally, men's cuffs were patterned, and women's cuffs were ribbed or lacy. 

My notes:  
U.S. 3, 3.25 mm.  Cascade 220 wool worsted weight.

I started with a different mitten pattern, Selbu Mittens by Henriette Hope, and it was turning out way too long, so I ripped back to the end of the cuff and began with this pattern. I eliminated the first 4 rows of the pattern so it wouldn’t be too long since her hands are short.
I used size 3 needles on the cuff, beginning with 44 stitches. Knit K2 P2 ribbing: 10 rows MC, 2 CC, 2 MC, 3 CC, 2 MC, 2 CC, and 6 MC. Knit one row in MC increasing to 52 stitches. I used size 3 needles for the mitten, too.
It is still a pretty large mitten with the Cascade yarn, so next time I could use a sport or DK yarn or size 2 needles. Main color: Blue. Contrast Color: White.
Thumb: MC, front stitches, MC. Back: CC, back stitches, CC. Pick up 4 stitches, one at each end of needles.
I made beginning of round at pinky side. 26 stitches. Really fun knit!